Ruger 10/22 v. Marlin 795

The Marlin 795 (together with its tube-fed cousin, the Model 60) is probably the second most common rifle seen on Appleseed lines, and is the 10/22’s biggest competitor in the market. The two rifles are very similar in purpose: Inexpensive, light, reasonably accurate semi-auto rifles. But Ruger and Marlin definitely take different paths to end up with similar performance. I recently acquired an older Marlin and have had a chance to compare it with our 10/22s.

Here’s a look at some of the differences (in OEM configuration, without modifications):

Marlin Ruger
Barrel fitment Cross-pinned Screwed-in retainer block
Last Shot Bolt Hold-Open Yes No
Auto bolt release Yes No
Scope mount 3/8” groove on receiver Screw-on rail
Magazine 10-round stick 10-round rotary
Magazine disconnect Yes No
Extractor Double Single
Length of pull 13.875” 13.5”

You don’t get a big variety of models with the Marlin: Just the basic rifle, in either black finish or stainless steel. If you want something special, whether it’s a compact size, target bull or heavy taper barrel, wood stock or different colors, you will be looking at 10/22s.

There are some very good action upgrades for the Marlin, specifically triggers and spring kits, which can make it more pleasant to shoot. But nothing close to the cornucopia of high-quality aftermarket goodies available for the 10/22.

Shooting Impressions

In terms of reliability and accuracy, the two rifles are very close. The Marlin might even be a fraction more accurate at 50 yards. The Marlin’s trigger has a very long take-up, probably because the trigger itself is attached to the trigger guard, which is separate from the action. But at least on this Marlin, the pull weight is about the same as on a 10/22 at around 7 lbs. The bolt release lever works with a simple push, which is much more convenient than Ruger’s locking release mechanism. The dual extractors remove unfired rounds effectively even if the chamber is dirty. Because of the magazine disconnect, you can not dry-fire the Marlin unless a magazine is in place – so you’d better be 100% certain that the mag is empty.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Here’s where the different action designs between the Marlin and the Ruger become important. Simply, the Marlin gets dirtier than the Ruger and it’s a PITA to clean.

One key reason is that in the Ruger, the magazine well is separate from and forward of the trigger group. When the bolt cycles back, the trigger group remains covered by the bolt and stays clean. The Marlin’s mag well is part of the action assembly and there is a large gap behind it. Soot and unburned powder are blown deep into the action, which gets very dirty and gritty quickly.

795 receiver bolt spring handle

The photo above shows (bottom to top) the Marlin 795 receiver, guide rod and spring, bolt, and bolt handle. Note that the lug for the guide rod is in the middle of the receiver – this prevents drilling a cleaning hole in the back of the receiver as many 10/22 owners have done.

Field-stripping for basic cleaning is similar between the two: loosen the action screws to remove the stock (first removing the trigger guard on the Marlin), remove the trigger assembly, then pull the bolt back and remove it. The bolt guide rod in the Marlin sits in a hole in the center of the bolt, rather than alongside as in the Ruger.  Because of this, the rod and spring are separate rather than captured in a subassembly. The spring is much longer than the rod, and you must be careful not to kink that spring when reinstalling the bolt or you’ll buy a new one.

795 trigger group top795 trigger group right side795 trigger group bottom

Photos above, top to bottom: Marlin 795 action group viewed from top, left side, and bottom.

1022 Trigger parts795 Trigger parts

The photos above show the fully disassembled trigger groups of the Ruger (top) and Marlin.

The Ruger’s trigger group design, from an engineering perspective, is efficient and elegant. The injection-molded trigger housing (cast aluminum on pre-2008 models) contains all the parts which are held in place by four pins. The trigger/disconnector/sear are in a nice subassembly, as is the hammer strut/spring. The Marlin looks like a Rube Goldberg machine, all stamped metal parts (except the hammer), pins and springs. The trigger and safety are attached to the trigger guard. The action group is an assembly of separate parts attached to cross-pins, all held together by two stamped plates fastened by several e-clips. The Ruger uses simple coil springs which are protected or captured. The Marlin’s sear spring and disconnector spring have odd shapes and won’t work right if you get them kinked while removing them.  The hammer spring is not captured in a subassembly. You need to make a special tool (using a paper clip) to keep it compressed during reassembly of the action. With practice, you can put it all together in about ten minutes. But it’s still a PITA to do.

Because disassembling the Marlin action is so much fun, most owners advise not taking it apart for cleaning, but to spray it down with solvent or brake cleaner, maybe hit it with a toothbrush, and blow it out with compressed air. I tried that method and it does a poor job of cleaning. The sticky soot and powder need to be scrubbed and wiped off each surface. The gunk that collects in corners and between the metal parts is what hurts functioning, and it won’t come out with mere spraying and superficial brushing. I suppose an ultrasonic cleaner would work great – how many of us have one lying around?

The Marlin’s polymer bolt buffer is part of the action assembly. Over a few years, it will dry out, become brittle, and break, dropping pieces into the action which then malfunctions. (I have personally had to replace two of these on friends’ rifles.) A replacement buffer costs around $20. For the 10/22, you can get a Kidd or a urethane buffer from a number of suppliers that lasts forever, for about $6.

The bottom line: While the Marlin is a good-shooting rifle, from a total ownership satisfaction perspective I MUCH prefer the 10/22.

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Review: Gunsmither Bolt Bar

Last week I purchased a “Bolt Bar” from Gunsmither Tools. I’ve tried it out and have some comments. Bottom line: I recommend using this tool for bolt removal/installation for anyone who has challenges with finger strength or dexterity; and I recommend its extractor tool for everyone.

(Disclosure: I bought the tool from the Tandemkross website and have not communicated with them or Gunsmithertools in the writing of this review.)

Bolt Bar closeup

Holding bolt handle back

Holding extractor plunger back

Hooked on rear of bolt

The Bolt Bar is one of those tools whose concept and design transcend the simplicity of its material and manufacturing. When you get it, you might say, “Well that’s obvious.” But we didn’t come up with the idea, Joe Beary of Gunsmither did. The Bolt Bar is a 7-inch long strip of aluminum with two bends, and two roll pins sticking out from one side. It does two jobs:

  • Make it easy to push the bolt handle back, and to hold the bolt handle in place while removing or installing the bolt.
  • Make it easy to pull back the extractor plunger and hold it in place for removal and installation of the extractor.

The Bolt Bar has a few quirks but once you learn it, it works very well. For myself, I prefer my own method of using my fingers to remove the bolt, because I can better feel what is happening with the parts and it goes faster. The video below compares using the Bolt Bar to my “standard” method of using two hands and careful finger placement to do the job:

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An Easy Way to Learn the Bolt Release

Many, in fact most, 10/22 owners do not modify their bolt locks for “auto release” function. I have worked with many shooters, not only beginners but also long-time owners, who struggle with locking and closing the bolts on their 10/22s.This was the subject of one of our first posts, and this post shows the inner workings of the bolt lock/release: How the 10/22 Bolt Lock/Release Works
Here is an easy way to learn how to operate the bolt release, and for instructors to teach it:

Think of operating the bolt lock as four separate steps:

Back: pull the bolt back and hold it there.

Up: press the bolt lock lever up.

Release: release the bolt to go forward in a controlled manner.

Down: release the bolt lock lever.

Now make easy-to-remember acronyms from these four steps.

To lock the bolt open, B-U-R-D (pronounced “bird”):

Back (hold it there)
Up (and hold the lever up)
Release (you will feel the bolt catch on the bolt lock)
Down

To close the bolt, B-U-D-R (pronounced “butter”):

Back
Up
Down
Release

When you break the task down into these four separate steps, it become easy to learn, and foolproof.

I hope this is helpful.

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Decibullz Ear Plugs

For years I wore Howard Leight electronic earmuffs for shooting. I like the hearing enhancement for normal sounds, and they muffle gun shots fairly well (but not a Barrett .50 BMG from the side), but after a few hours they start to hurt, especially where they press the temples of my shooting glasses into my skull bones.

For the last couple of months I’ve been using a great alternative – Decibullz custom-molded plastic ear plugs (www.decibullz.com).

Decibullz 1

 

The molded piece is made of a thermoset plastic that softens in hot water. Following the directions, I made a pair of plugs in about 20 minutes that fit perfectly. One thing I really liked is that if you don’t like the fit, you can soften them in hot water and remold, just as when they were new. They are rated up to 31 dB noise reduction, but of course that depends on how well you fit them in the molding process. Mine work at least as well as the muffs and are a whole lot more comfortable. They even fit comfortably inside my motorcycle helmet.

I gladly recommend these plugs. (Note, I bought them on Amazon and have had no communication with the maker.) They come in a variety of colors.

A couple of years ago I tried some Radians DIY molded plugs, which are made of some kind of resin that cures on your ear. They never hardened and it took about three hours to clean the sticky gook out of my ears.

One thing to be careful about: since they soften at relatively low temperature, I would not leave them in a hot car for any length of time. Last week I left my first pair of Decibullz in a pants pocket and they went through the laundry. In the dryer they melted onto some other clothes and were ruined.  The ones in the photo are my second pair, which I made today. They fit perfectly and safely inside the case for my shooting glasses.

Decibullz 2

 

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Volquartsen Target Trigger

I’ve never liked the  OEM plastic trigger blade on my 10/22. It feels like it’s bending when I press it; the curved, ribbed face makes it way too easy to pull to the side rather than straight back; and the over-travel is terrible leading to a long, weak reset.

Last Friday at the Nation’s Gun Show in Chantilly, Virginia I met Alan Hinchcliffe, the owner of Rimfire Sports & Custom, and bought a Volquartsen trigger. Rimfire Sports (rimfiresports.com) is a great on-line store for all sorts of upgrade parts for 10/22s and Ruger Mk II/III and 22/45 pistols. Their prices are nearly always the lowest I’ve found, especially when you include their free shipping. I’ve bought a number of items there online, most recently a trigger and sear kit for a Ruger 22/45 (which I’ll be reviewing in another post soon).

Here’s a video I made showing the trigger compared to the OEM, as well as the complete installation process:

The new trigger does everything I wanted from it:

  • the machined aluminum trigger is light and stiff. It feels like a direct connection to the sear. It’s like the difference between a 1970’s slushbox automatic transmission and a short-throw 5-speed manual.
  • The straight blade and flat, smooth face contribute to a direct, straight-back motion. The straight blade allows placing the finger lower on the trigger. The leverage effect makes the pull feel lighter.
  • The adjustable over-travel stop screw is just great. Now the trigger moves hardly more than 1/16″ from let-off to stop. Reset is smooth and feels more positive. The improved movement is shown in the video.

Bottom line: If you are upgrading your trigger group with drop-in parts, this is a good one to use. I also looked at the Tactical Innovations trigger, but the long, beveled edges of the trigger face have the same effect as the  curved OEM trigger, and it does not include the over-travel stop screw.

Note: This upgrade makes my home-made trigger stop article from last year obsolete. For about $25, this is a much better solution in every way.

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It’s Appleseed Season!

We are now in the full swing of Project Appleseed markmanship/history events all over the USA. Every weekend from now through November, there will be dozens of shoots in different states. I’ve been an Appleseed instructor for about four years now, doing 12-15  events per year in Virginia and neighboring states. I heard a comment yesterday from a CMP small-arms firing school instructor to the effect that Appleseed teaches shooting even better than they do.

Teaching Appleseeds is my second-favorite shooting pastime, perhaps even more fun than doing my own shooting. It is so gratifying to see a student, whether a beginner or a Marine, growing in confidence and skill and the look of pure joy when he or she gains total command over the rifle and shoots accurately. Learning rifle marksmanship gives us a personal connection to the experience of those farmers, craftsmen, merchants and ministers who risked everything for their – and our – freedom.

The 10/22 is the most popular rifle among Appleseeders. It allows you to concentrate on your skills without the distractions of noise and recoil. The 10-round magazine works best, but BX-25s can be used successfully. Any sighting system is welcome and can qualify for the Rifleman patch. (I do think that a scope makes it much easier than with iron sights but the older my eyes get the more I like scopes.) If you have physical limitations, worry not. Appleseed is adaptive and we’ll make the experience fit your abilities.

Bring as many friends and family as you can. The more people who learn the story of April 19, 1775, the better our chance of saving the country.

Project Appleseed is a nationwide 501c3 organization which seeks to restore the ethic of active citizenship among all Americans, in order to preserve the constitutional republic our Founders bequeathed to us. It is a non-partisan, educational program.  Every Appleseed instructor is an unpaid volunteer. Appleseed conducts weekend events which combine instruction in rifle marksmanship and firearm safety with inspiring stories of our country’s founding. The goal of the program is to give students the skills, motivation, and confidence to participate actively in public affairs at all levels – to act as citizens, not subjects, as the Founders intended. Full information on Project Appleseed can be found at http://appleseedusa.org

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TD Marine – a Practical Package

A while back I wrote about the Takedown model, concluding that for certain purposes, such as the need for compact storage and transport, it is a great solution; but otherwise it isn’t as good a shooter as the standard model. (See the full article here: Thoughts on the Takedown Model).

Recently I saw an especially neat version, the 11193 Marine model. This is a basic stainless carbine with a polymer stock and a BX-25 magazine, packaged in a hard plastic case. The hard case protects the rifle quite well. The case has a rubber gasket in it, similar to that on an ammo can, to keep moisture out. Just inside the handle are cutouts for a lock.

IMAG1495IMAG1491

It seems the perfect solution for harsh environments such as a boat locker, in the cab or tool box of a pickup, the trunk of a car, or on a rack on a quad or Gator.

I saw two limitations in Ruger’s execution of this product. First, there is no place to store an optic in the case, so you’re limited to iron sights. I’d probably install a Skinner or Williams WGRS low profile peep sight on the receiver to get a proper sight picture, and I’m pretty sure either one would fit. Second, there is a gap in the gasket near the handle portion of the case:

IMAG1493

I think an appropriate blob of silicone caulk or similar product would easily close the gap to make the case truly water-tight. Not a huge problem, but I wish Ruger would do the product 100% right and not leave it to the owner to complete the job.

On balance, I really like this 10/22 variant as it is very well suited to a specific need that many owners will have.

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